Gabe and I recently started getting into aid climbing and wanted some practice on a big wall. We decided to head to Yosemite to work through the aid pitches of Washington Column’s South Face. Here’s a quick intro into aid climbing with a mini trip report of our first attempt up a big wall.
About Aid Climbing
Big wall aid climbing is a bit of a different beast…I came to the conclusion that if you can get that haul bag up the wall, you’ve gotten yourself there too. The haul bag, or ‘big pig’, seems to be the weakest link…it’s the heaviest thing on the climb and does nothing. Plus, you have to haul the monster up after all your aid climbing :\ It’s a bit of a daunting task but an essential one if you don’t want to die of thirst, starvation, and want a decent night’s sleep on the rock.
That said, there is some pretty awesome gear which helps you get up the wall.
I made a Big Wall Rock Climbing Gear list on Amazon…don’t forget the Metolius Waste Case (LMAO). As part of this ‘Intro to Aid Climbing’ series I plan on creating a blog post specifically about big wall gear as well as another mini trip report of a great intro big wall, Leaning Tower in Yosemite. Stay tuned!
For now, I’ll start with my South Face adventure…
Washington Column’s South Face: C1, 5.8 (*****)
We decided to test out our new aid climbing skills with the South Face of Washington Column. Why?
PROs:
- easy 1.5hr approach from the Ahwahnee Hotel (not bad)
- 10 pitches including the beginning 7 straightforward aid pitches and ending 3 free-able pitches
- the Dinner Ledge found after the 3rd pitch is huge, which could accommodate us without the need to haul up our own portaledge
CONs:
- it’s one of the most popular routes and a little congestion could occur (plan to share the route with friendly climbers!)
- HOT! during the summer months (as are most climbs in Yosemite)
Getting There
We parked at the Ahwahnee Hotel (with a nicely washed car so we wouldn’t look too sketchy leaving the car there for a few days). We hiked to the base twice, dropping out water/food off first then bringing all the gear. Slept near the base and started in the morning. There’s a bit of a scramble to the beginning of the climb.
Initial Pitches
We started out with Gabe leading the first pitch and I decided to free followed up. This was fun but took a bit longer to get the big pig up so we decided against free following after that. Another aid pitch later, I took the lead and free climbed the fun cracks until we hit Dinner Ledge. Here’s a pic of me appearing to be falling off but I’m really just at a belay anchor posing in a very Asian way, hehe…
Once we got to Dinner Ledge, we were pretty exhausted! Mainly we were learning through trial-and-error the best practices for hauling the freaking pig! It was really hard for me to haul by clipping into the pulley with a step ladder + jumar and trying to crank down with my foot on the ladder. What ended up working better was the full-body haul, where you basically clip an ascender directly into your harness loop and pull back with your whole body. Sometimes having a daisy attached to the anchor allows you to set a comfortable fixed distance for the body-haul / lean-back, which helps make things a bit more methodical and (only slightly) bearable.
Dinner Ledge
This is am amazing ledge as far as rock climbing ledges go. It’ hard to leave actually. Here, you have an incredible view of Half Dome (which is a great climb!), a nice breeze, and plenty of room for 4 climbers to sleep.
It’s a great place to enjoy a climber-friendly mean and get some beta on the upcoming pitches. As it turns out we stayed another day because the ledge was that comfortable and a little hard to leave, hehe. That’s us protecting ourselves from the blazing sun with our emergency blanket - it was glorious!
Pitches after Dinner Ledge
The pitch above the Dinner Ledge is the most classic one on the route, the Kor Roof. Take a look…it’s the most noticeable roof bolted by a 6″5′ dude. That didn’t stop me from leading this pitch, it just required some pretty far-reaching moves. Check it out my aid lead and Gabe’s jumar:
After the roof and along the crack traverse, I realized I was running out of gear so had stopped at the shorter anchors and we fixed out rope to be jumared the next morning.
Climbing Friends
We met some nice people on the ledge including Brendan of Yosemite Valley (who was soloing some of the climb) and a sweet Portuguese couple (who were spending a month in the valey, preparing for the Nose climb on El Capitan).
I should note that you should probably lead pitch 6 with climbing shoes as I had a bit of trouble trying to do the one free 5.7 traverse with my mountaineering boots. If I were to do it again, I would always wear my climbing shoes if I lead climbs that involve any sort of free moves - climbs feel much more exposed on big walls and trying to do any free moves without the gear/shoes you feel comfortable in can feel really sketchy!
The next day and after the aid pitches, we were beat…and headed back home with a dinner stop at Degnan’s Loft for their delicious Chef’s Salad, pizza, and lasagna.
Washington Column was a great introduction to aid climbing and I’d highly recommend it for anyone getting into the game.
More aid climbing adventures to come with the big pig!
A couple weekends ago, I took to Tuolumne Meadows with Gabe and Ryan. Ryan just got back from a 2-month work/play trip to Google Ireland so he was overdue for some sweet multipitch trad climbing.
We decided to climb the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak, left route variation. It’s one of the most popular climbs in Tuolumne due to the quality of the rock and its fairly moderate route of trad 5.6 (*****). Here’s the SuperTopo:
The plan was to get up at 4am from our campsite and head to the Cathedral Lakes trailhead. From there we’d hike the a couple hours to the base. If there were no other parties, we’d get on the rock for the quality 5-pitch climb to the summit.
Here is the first of several “capitan’s log” videos, this one is of us setting up at the trailead, debating who is the actual ‘capitan’ of this climb…and it appears that Gabe won that argument (for now):
The approach itself is pretty enjoyable as long as you don’t lose sight of the path and the sunrise on the surrounding mountains!
We brought a full rack with Gabe taking the main trad lead, I following up and cleaning the climb, and Ryan to boot. Here is the climb up close:
As it turns out, we weren’t the only ones on the climb. There were a big handful of other teams so the belay anchors got a little crowded, especially at the top. We stuck to the left side in order to avoid a few other teams (so we couldn’t do the “c” chimney variation, but maybe next time).
Here’s Gabe, getting his lead on:
Here’s a shot video I took of Ryan belaying Gabe on the 4th pitch:
During the climb, we ran into mr. marmot - what a cutie! This little guy somehow was able to scramble up several hudred feet up to our ledge…eyeing Ryan’s something something socks/shoes, shorts, what have you. At one point, I was climbing up and looked down at Ryan and the marmot was right behing him!
After the 4th pitch, we had to wait while other parties lead the final pitch to the summit. The ledge up there is very spacious, which is a good thing since it’s pretty standard to have to wait as other parties finish their climbs at this belay.
The actual summit topout is very exposed and cramped, a bit of a spire fit for max 4 ppl. I lead up first, enjoyed the summit, then downclimbed for the guys to do the same. Poor ryry was a little nervous as he took this summit vid:
The descent took a bit longer and was a bit more exposed than we would have liked but we made it back just fine.
Randomly, we met a guy on the trail down who needed a short ride (he just finished a 12 mile hike)…apparently he left his wife at the car in the morning and after a full day, he needed to get back to her and the car. Him and his wife were on vacation from Romania. Well of course we gave him a ride and sure enough we found the car and wife, who must have been real happy her man was back. Like I said, that was pretty random.
Tonight at the climbing gym, I made a new friend named Bryan. He’s been climbing for many years now and we got onto the topic of gear selection. My feet were tired after wearing my purposely tight climbing shoes so I had taken them off. Bryan suggested I might want to try the Five Ten Anasazi VCS Women’s Climbing Shoe, velcro model for easy on/off during bouldering sessions (he has the male version, the Five Ten Anasazi V2 (VCS) Men’s Climbing Shoe). That got me thinking…
Five Ten Anasazi Women's Climbing Shoe
A lot of climbing gear choice exists nowadays with some equipment made specifically for females (w00t!). Many climbers go through quite a bit of gear to find the perfect combination, which helps them perform at their best for any given climb. As I was getting into climbing, I tried to figure out just what worked well for me, being a newbie-intermediate female indoor/outdoor climber. Unfortunately, I didn’t know many female climbers who could provide me with some welcome recommendations.
Being a bit of a product junkie and having an openness to try new stuff, I’ve invested through several sets of essential climbing gear, naturally with a female focus. Here, I’d like to share and evangelize some of my great finds…the gear exists not only in my gear closet but on my body when I’m out there attacking the crux of any given climb :). I hope it helps all those females out there trying to find their geared-up climbing way and enable them to focus on the climbing fun. ps: I’m always looking for new stuff to try so please let me know what you recommend.
OMG Shoes!
I know it’s a little cliché but I have to start with (omg) shoes. I’m a big fan of having really comfortable, high-performance footwear and after a bit of trial and error, I decided that the La Sportiva line of shoes has just what I need (and, no, they do not sponsor me *sigh*). I should note that for climbing shoes, I’ve tried some Evolves too. Since the Evolves are made of synthetic material, they tend to trap ungodly foot odor much more than leather types (a big peeve of mine). Thus, the shoes I wear and swear by are:
Awesomeness Factor: I wear these shoes for just about all my outdoor (all types) and indoor (crack) climbing adventures. They are extremely comfortable and can be worn for extended hours as opposed to some of my other shoes. The Mythos is truly a high performance shoe that performs with precision.
Success Tidbit: I wore these on Yankee Clipper, a fairly long multi-pitch climb in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. After 12 pitches, I was still feeling pretty chipper. Another girl climbed up after me complaining relentlessly about her aching feet, where she had to take off her Evolve shoes (too tight/technical for the climb) almost every time she was belaying her partner…after that she was more than ready to get a pair of Mythos.
Awesomeness Tidbit: A very versatile technical shoe with a powerful toe box and padded heel makes this shoe the ones I like on trickier routes involving small foot holds. I don’t wear them for over an hour at a time since they are a little snug but they are work brilliantly during the climb.
Success Story: I wore these on my first ever 12a lead climb in the gym! I also used them projecting challenging boulder problems. I have never climbed so hard in any other shoe.
Awesomeness Tidbit: All-Around the best mountaineering boot on the market. They are ultra lightweight, need no ‘wear in’ time, and work perfectly as a dry mountaineering boot and ice mountaineering boot with /without crampons.
Success Story (or not): One day Gabe and I decided to try to hike Mt. Shasta in a day. We rented mountaineering boots at the local sports store. Those basic plastic boots did a decent job keeping me warm but my feet were completely soaked by the time I got near the top. It was getting late / windy after 13,000 feet up so we retreated and my feet were aching prunes by the time we got back to the car. One month later, I bought the Trango’s along with my own crampons and have been happily mountaineering ever since!
note: since they are a little pricey, I bought mine using my annual 20% off coupon from REI.
Evolve Update: I’m not entirely hating on other brands of climbing shoes such as the Evolves. I just bought the Evolve Talon Rock Climbing Shoe and am currently deciding if I like them…
Harnesses
After several short term relationships with various harnesses made by Black Diamond, Petzl, and Mammut, it has come down to just one.
Awesomeness Tidbit:What some may consider the Victoria Secret’s IPEX equivalent for harnesses! I recently bought this harness and have relinquished all my others. It moves perfectly with me and feels so feather-light invisible on. Yes, I’m still talking about the R280 harness and, trust me, there is no other comparison.
Success Story: I put all my other harnesses on craigslist. Arc’Teryx stuff: made in Canada = even more props!
Did I mention it pairs nicely with the Arc’Teryx C40 Chalk Bag? This bag has a built-in strap and chalk brush holder, which proves great for bouldering.
Arc'Teryx C40 Chalk Bag
What’s on the Harness?
For starters, get yourself a carabiner and belay device.
As far as carabiners go, I tend towards the self-locking kinds and like the ones that are color coded (red you’re dead), such as the Am’D Locking Carabiner - Screw Lock by Petzl.
In terms of belay devices, I use either an ATC or a Gri-Gri.
Awesomeness Tidbit: the ATC ( Air Traffic Controller) is a belaying device made by Black Diamond. Comes in handy when you want to rappel off a climb, etc. I.e. very useful as a belay and repelling device.
Awesomeness Tidbit: An auto-locking belay device made by Petzl. I use this more than my ATC since I always belay people that are bigger than I am and in case there are any crazy lead falls, I feel slightly better knowing/hoping the auto-lock kicks in. It’s very useful for belaying, especially on multi-pitch routes where you may need to belay from above or belay multiple people who are simulclimbing, or hauling the ‘big pig’.
ATC
GriGri
Sport Climbing: Once you have the basic gear and climbing technique down, you may want to start sport lead climbing. As such, you’ll probably want to get some quickdraws and a rope to start leading on sport routes. Quickdraws are pretty easy to come by but the main things is to make sure they have a good size opening for quick release and smooth clipping. I recommend the ones with the wire-gate closure on one side, which tend to be lighter and easier to clip with its flat shape, such as these
Traditional (Trad) Climbing: You may be into trad / traditional climbing too and if that’s the case, then you’ll want to begin by borrowing gear from friends so you learn how to place protection (cams, nuts, etc.). If you feel ready to make the trad climbing move, you’ll want to get a full rack (this is where the most expensive purchases will be made).
Here are some trad rack essentials (which you do NOT want to ever drop!):
There’s quite a bit more options such as Aliens, Offset nuts, Hooks, etc. and I’ll try to write more later on this as I get into buying them myself (currently in borrowing phase for special pieces).
Once you have the basic climbing down, you may want to start lead climbing with your own rope. I suggest getting a bicolor / bipattern rope for quick and easy identification of the midpoint of the rope without affecting rope quality or performance. Getting a rope in 10.2mm width and under is ideal since they do the job with less the bulk/weight. I have one from Beal and one from PMI. Compared to the single colored ropes out there, I found that these bi-pattern ropes, which change pattern midway, have enabled me to improve my climbing judgement and general rope management skills.My favorite rope brands are Sterling, New England, Beal and PMI. I have one from Beal and one from PMI, although my friends have often raved about Sterling and New England ropes (they are just a little more pricey).
Climbing Clothes
My favorite athletic brands are: Arc’Teryx (outerwear), prAna (tops/bottoms), Patagonia (base layer, underwear), lululemon (tops/bottoms, great for Yoga too), Marmot (outerwear), plus some BeBe Sport (workout suits, non-branded ones), The North Face (jackets), and Nike (bottoms/tops). Since everyone’s shaped differently, I suggest anything that fits you well in these select brands because they make quality, technical apparel without making you look too ‘plaid/khaki’ goofy.
If you ever climb with you, you’ll soon realize I love to snack all day. My snack variety ranges from the über athlete to the ultra junk food…here is a short list of the snacks I stash in my pockets and daypack:
Whenever we go on a weekend climbing jaunt, my friends and I always plan for at least one gourmet-style breakfast (think eggs, tomatoes, basil, English muffins, Canadian maple-flavoured bacon, Soy Chai and Yerba Mate). Of course, one the days when you just want to get going, try these Nature Valley bars with the yummy naturally flavored yogurt coating (blueberry and strawberry…mmm!).
These organic energy chews are irresistible…come to think of it, I crave one right now since you know, blogging is quite the workout But seriously, if you haven’t tried these, you don’t know what you’re missing. I love the cran-razz and strawberry flavors anytime and cola w/ caffeine when I wake up at 4am for one of those long multi-pitches!
I feel no shame in munching down a king size Snickers bar simply because it tastes incredible, especially after going through the standard assortment of nutritional bars. A major perk is that one king size Snickers provides just over 500 calories, which is actually perfect when you are on a multi-pitch climb and need energy fast!
Naturally, organic nuts, dried and fresh/juicy fruit go a long way. Fresh Fruits that work well on climbing trips include organic apples, pears, cherries, hard peaches, hard nectarines, and sometimes strawberries (but don’t try to pack these as they easily get smooshed).
Currently, I’m reading Lynn Hill’s Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World and would highly recommend it to anyone. This book got me thinking about inspirational climbers, particularly female ones. Here are my top three:
Lynn Hill: known for making the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. A true inspiration to me, especially since she also happens to have a gymnastics background.
Lynn on Tasmanian Spire
I’d like to share three great quotes from the book…
Remarks Brooke Sandahl as Lynn successfully free climbs what is considered the hardest pitch up the Nose on El Capitan:
That looks like a contortion only Houdini would make up.
Reflection by Lynn herself:
The spirit of free climbing is about adapting one’s personal capacities and dimensions to the natural features of the rock, not the other way around.
John Long’s take:
Mastery is admirable in any field. But when this mastery plays out by slaying gender stereotypes, embracing primal terrors (always a factor in climbing), having the vision and chops to do long-established things in novel ways, fighting through injuries, slim wages, and one’s own doubts and insecurities, and growing more modest in the process, a mere rock climb becomes a victory for the human spirit. Though choice or temperament, most of us are followers. Greatness, on the other hand, is almost always a path leading into the unknown and unproven. And Lynn walked that path like a giant…the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill.
Beverly Johnson: true pioneer in rock climbing and mountaineering, with the first female solo accent of El Capitan’s Dihedral Wall. She’s also got a great book:
A couple years ago, I visited Guilin on a mere post-grad family trip. I was exposed to the many tourist attractions including the Li River, Reed Flute Cave, even the Sweet-scented Osmanthus Candy. What caught my eye the most where the rocks along the Li River….a myriad of spectacular limestone rock formations and mountains. Turns out that Yangshuo, near Guilin, is the up-and-coming rock climbing hot spot in China. It’s attracting more attention these days, inviting international climbers of varying skill ranging from 5.7-5.15+ to come here and experience the sharp end…
Reed Flute Cave (Ludi Yan), Guilin
I’ve been thinking that now’s as good a time as any to start scheming up ways to make this a reality.
Moon Hill in Yangshuo
After a tad bit of research, I found a few informative sites:
Last weekend was spent in South Lake Tahoe with an international climbing/bouldering crew. My friends Wayne and Minji invited Gabe and I to a weekend of fun with their friends Daniel and Silvina (and mischievous son, Zen). How lucky were we to be climbing with such wonderful company? Since they were pros who have traveled the world in search for the perfect lines, I also picked up a few tricks and tips and enhanced my climbing inspiration.
We planned on climbing at the Eagle Lake Cliff by Emerald Bay on Saturday and then bouldering at Middle Bliss Boulders. If you haven’t picked up the South Lake Tahoe climbing and/or bouldering guides by SuperTopo, I’d highly recommend it.
Checking out the climbing guide, I’m sure you were quickly drawn into the aesthetic crack line photographed on the climbing cover: Space Walk (a 5* worthy 11c) known to be “the best crack in Tahoe”. Naturally, that was a weekend project. Once I made my way to the base of the flaring crack, I chalked up and began the ever-so-overhanging jaunt….
Turns out I was less than graceful and quickly learned what it meant to really finger/hand/foot jam into the most precarious crack. The little ‘helper’ crack to its immediate right helped muscle through along part of the way. I was definitely pumped and a little scratched up once I got to the top, but it was well worth it.
If you want to give it a try, here are the directions/beta to get you there:
On another note, I have fallen for crack climbing and the infamous lay back moves it warrants. I’ll write more on that soon.
Of course, the next day was fantastic too! Bouldering at Middle Bliss Boulders presented many hard problems including tough crimpers, thin slabs, and some big dynos. Here’s Wayne sending some V4/5, which we all agreed was a stiff rating.
PS: would love to check out Daniel & Silvina’s Bed & Breakfast for climbers in Cochamó and other recommended climbing areas in Argentina soon. When I finally make it down there, I wonder what kinds of climbs Zen will be sending!?
My life took a fateful turn when I moved from Canada to San Francisco. I was introduced to a one-season climate and wonderful friends who knew how to take advantage of it by being on the sharp end. It was refreshing, challenging and invited me for more.
I began traveling to the local climbing gym, Mission Cliffs, as a guest with my friends on numerous occasions and then got an intro 10 pass. Finally, on March 24, 2007 I made a commitment. I signed up for a climbing membership and joined friends in on some very memorable climbing trips to Tahoe and Yosemite.
Not long after, we were hitting up some international venues including Squamish, BC and El Potrero Chico, MX. The time had come to establish some goals as any athlete would naturally do. That being said, 1 year later I redpointed a 12a on TR at the gym - w00t!
My skillful partner Gabe and I have been enjoying a Summer of Height (& Madness)…a series of weekend projects, which will train us for some of our more elaborate schemes on El Capitan
Please join me in this journey as I meet wonderful people, climb beautiful routes, and grow as a person (who, of course, happens to climb).
, velcro model for easy on/off during bouldering sessions (he has the male version, the 
). That got me thinking…
? This bag has a built-in strap and chalk brush holder, which proves great for bouldering.
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or the even lighter 
.
.
)
But seriously, if you haven’t tried these, you don’t know what you’re missing. I love the cran-razz and strawberry flavors anytime and cola w/ caffeine when I wake up at 4am for one of those long multi-pitches!
and would highly recommend it to anyone. This book got me thinking about inspirational climbers, particularly female ones. Here are my top three:
and/or 
guides by SuperTopo, I’d highly recommend it.
